thelongcamino

Boring Sh*t – Technical Stuff

Firstly, this blog was written each night on my iPhone as I lay in bed in albergue. So I apologise for the many spelling and grammatical errors. But hey, it keeps it real, right!

Starting at the most important piece of kit, James and I both wore Hoka trail runners. James wore Challenger ATR 6, I wore Speedgoats. James wore Macpac wool socks, I swapped between Injinji toe socks and the Macpac. He only ever tied the laces on his shoes once and he never wore them in. He had one tiny blister. Yep, one! I had two tiny blisters that I treated with compeed patches and the needle & cotton method. They were gone in about a week and I never had any more issues. I did take the advice of Rob from Rob’s Camino YouTube channel and put Vaseline on my heels.

My shoes were waterproof. In my opinion, you don’t need waterproof shoes. My feet sweated too much and my feet got hot. James had seal skin waterproof socks ready if needed. Having said that, if we had to walk day after day in rain, maybe I would be giving unreserved support and love for waterproof shoes. That’s the Camino.

James’s second set of footwear were slides. He had a pair that he brought from home, but he promptly lost one and so we had to buy a new pair in Pamplona. On day 2 we did see a you guy scooting along in slides and socks, though I wouldn’t want to do that for too long.

I had a pair of crocs. They are light, dry quickly and are super comfortable. The only downside was if I did get blisters, I wouldn’t be able to walk too far in them. So, what’s the alternative? Tevas seem to be a good option if you are worried about blisters with your boots/shoes and need a fallback option to keep walking. The downside of Tevas is that they take some time to dry and are quite heavy.

WARNING: The next bit may trigger some puritans!

I have Scarpa hiking boots. They are beautiful full grain leather and about the fifth pair I have owned. I wore a pair to Mt Everest Base Camp. They are great hiking boots. But, they are stiff and weigh a ton. I did well over one million steps and I am so glad I did it with super light trail runners. If I had to carry a load, say 20+kg, I would wear my Scarpas. But on the Camino you want the lightest pack you can, the rule being that it should be less than 10% of your body weight. So for me it’s a no brainer, trail runners every day. Okay, send the hate boot puritans!

As for packs, James had a Macpac that I got for him a few years back. It has a built in rain cover and was a perfect size. I had an Osprey Exodus 38 litre. It was a great pack for the walk.

For rain gear/shell we both had Macpac jackets and pants. They are great and people from the northern hemisphere who have never heard of Macpac were very impressed. We also had lightweight Macpac down jackets. Here we made an error. It was a lot colder than we thought. Down is great but once it gets wet it is useless. The solution was to buy James and I some lightweight fleece jackets. They wick sweat away from your body and they worked great. If you are planning a Camino in early spring or autumn, check the forecast before you go and pack accordingly.

Mikael and Mads wore Nordisk and Loow gear and it looked to be excellent quality gear. I’m sure we’ll buy some in the not too distant future.

We both had Macpac woollen thermals. For clothes we had 2 lightweight long sleeve shirts, a t-shirt for Albergue use, shorts and 2 pairs of long pants. The spares were in case we got wet. All in all our packing was about right.

James wore a Midnight Oil cap and I had a Tilley hat.

We both had Macpac woollen boxer shorts which again worked well, though mine wore through. I would probably have the wool shorts for night wear and some synthetic boxers for walking.

I took a scarf but didn’t need it.

We didn’t have any elaborate hydration gear, simply 2 x 750ml plastic water bottles. Other people had bladders which they said worked really well other than you can’t see how much water is left. I like and have used bladders, their cleanliness over 5 weeks turned me off.

Checking the weather before we left meant sleeping bags were essential. We both had Macpac Escapade 150 down bags. They pack small and are light and but for one or two nights, we’re used the whole way. That said, if we were walking in summer, we would probably not carry these. We also had Sea to Summit silk liners that were barely used as we were given mattress and pillow covers at almost every albergue.

Okay, now for the big question – would we have done anything differently?

Yes!

Even though it was cold, we could have easily had two pairs of lightweight long pants. We each had a second out of what I’ll call heavy long pants. I never wore mine. I think James wore his once. They are bulky and weigh 3 times as much as our Macpac Boulder pants.

James’s pack was really not made for long distance walking as the pack sat flush against his back meaning he sweated a lot. My pack had webbing that kept the pack well off my back. Next walk, James will need a different pack.

As I said above, we needed fleece from the start. There were a few days where we had to walk in wool thermal tops, down jackets and shell jackets because of the cold and the wind. Once we got a sweat up, the down jackets lost their thermal properties and made us cold. You can buy waterproof down gear, but it is crazy expensive, usually too bulky and lightweight fleece does a great job.

Other than that, I was impressed with all of our gear. I lost a few things along the way by accident and threw out my moleskin journal in favour of blogging direct to my phone.

James and Leo, our Aussie mates, cut pages from the Brierley guidebook as they went to reduce weight. I carried the whole thing the whole way, mostly to keep finding errors. I love maps and books, but if I was pushed, I’d leave the guidebook at home and use an app like Camino Ninja. It was a fantastic tool for planning and booking. You can always take photos of the guidebook maps and have them on your phone if needed.

I should say that I love the Brierley book. It is full of great tips (like Granon) and I love having something tactile to flick through and remember places.

So there it is, all the boring, technical sh*t for anyone interested and for me to read before I walk again so I don’t make the same mistakes. We adventurers (LOL) often say that there is as much joy in the planning as in the doing. Our Camino was many years in the planning and that is an enjoyable process, but there’s nothing like slinging your pack and walking out the front door knowing you won’t be returning for a while and not knowing what lies ahead. You never return as the same person who left and that is a great joy of the journey.

A Gift Bestowed – May 2022

Why walk the Camino?

It’s a good question and one that was asked many times as James and I walked across Spain.

For the many pilgrims we met along the way, there were many answers, some given freely, others only evident as the person opened up about themselves. We walked with Atheists and people of faith and none of that mattered. We were all pilgrims.

So why?

To heal. To have some space from their families and home life to revive themselves. To find yourself after being lost in the grind of life. To walk with your own personal god. To reconnect with a family member or friend. To contemplate deeply a major life decision. To drink and eat across Spain. Because it’s a cheap holiday. To find love. To confront addiction in the hope that it will be gone by the time you walk into Santiago. To lose weight. To get fit or rediscover your hidden physical strength. To regain lost confidence. To find romance. To recover from mental illness. To set a new speed record for walking across Spain.

Did all the pilgrims we met succeed? Did the Camino work miracles?

No, it didn’t. But it does work in its own mysterious way. We saw fellow pilgrims change over the 800km. Several even openly discussed their struggles and how they knew in themselves that they were in a better place having walked across Spain. They were having conversations thought impossible before they came to Spain.

There’s a saying that your true Camino begins when you leave Santiago.

James and I are home now. We flew from Madrid to Dubai, Dubai to Sydney on 12 and 13 May 2022. It’s wonderful to be back amongst our family and loved ones. But it’s also strange. We have lived in an extraordinary way for six weeks. Now we sleep in the same bed every night. We return to school and work. We don’t walk 25km every day, experiencing new people, languages, landscapes and places. It’s not going to be easy. But we know that we are pilgrims and that our Camino continues.

We have but this one precious life, these precious moments to savour.

So what about us? Why did we walk the Camino?

I thought I knew why before we left, but now I know a few more reasons.

To share the Camino with my son, James who I love dearly. He left Australia a boy and returned a man.

To have James call me to adventure when I was exhausted on the first day and walk in the snow, not on the road, to Roncesvalles.

To walk across Spain with the sun forever at your back.

To lose 7kg, a goodly chunk of my gut and to feel strong and fit.

To meet pilgrims who live only 150m from James in St James Road and share some wonderful experiences with them.

To share pilgrim dinners with extraordinary people.

To walk as the sun rises behind you and deer run across your path.

To walk and sing and laugh and cry with brothers and see their familial bond strengthen.

To spontaneously sing made up songs from Santo Domingo The Musical (c)

To sit in candlelight in an ancient church as pilgrims spoke from their hearts and tears were shed.

To meet Australian pilgrims on the side of the road out of Carrion and then share so many precious memories with them.

To be christened as a Camino Uncle.

For James and I to walk into a random pinchos bar in Pamplona and meet a fabulous English couple.

To join with our pilgrim family at the mass in Santiago.

To listen to fellow pilgrims when they really just needed someone to talk to about their lives.

To hear incredibly funny, but lewd (cannot be repeated here) jokes from a Canadian pilgrim. Call me and I’ll tell you his one about a hunter who’s gun keeps failing as they try to shoot a bear.

So, if you are contemplating walking a Camino, go with an open heart and an open mind. Be vulnerable. Be ready to laugh and cry and accept both with gratitude. Have humility and always say hola to the local Spaniards. We were never once ignored and I lost track of the number of times that we were given a big smile and a joyful, “buen Camino!” in reply.

As Uncle Pete says, “at the end of the day, there is only love.”

The true gift bestowed upon the pilgrim who is open to it is love.

Madrid Peregrinó – 8 – 12 May 2022

James and I arrived in Madrid on a hot May evening. Our hotel, Praga, was just south of the Rio Manzanares. For miles in either direction, the banks of the river were finely landscaped. Kids rode bikes. People were rollerblading. Lovers walked hand in hand. Dogs played, chasing soccer balls or play fighting. The city was alive!

One of many pedestrian bridges over the river

The beautifully landscaped riverside parklands

James was quick to spot the electro scooters that were able to be hired. We jumped on and headed into the traffic of Madrid.

After walking every day for 5 weeks, it was exhilarating to smoothly zap around the city. As James said at one point, “walking is for losers.”

What we quickly learn is that Madrid is a city of parks, amazing parks. We discover the Parque de El Retiró with its palaces, grand boulevards and lake full of row boats.

Mad dogs and Spaniards go rowing in the midday sun

James indulges in some shopping. Apparently workwear is a thing amongst the young folk. James is very excited at Carhartt, which is basically King Gee modelled by cool people with piercings and tats.

We keep scooting around the city. At times we walk. We were still wracking up days where we walked well over 10km. You can take the pilgrim off the Camino, but you can’t take the Camino out of the pilgrim.

It was hot, high 20’s. We enjoyed cold beer, Mexican food, quiet mornings and crazy busy evenings. Madrid is a great city, very easy to get around and enjoy.

The view over the enormous Casa de Campo parklands from the palace forecourt

One morning we scoot and walk along the river to the Casa de Campo. James had looked online and saw that it had a gondola. Cue the James Bond theme. Yes, a gondola. We had to have a ride.

The Casa de Campo is an enormous parkland right next to the heart of the city. It has lakes, bars, restaurants, an aquarium, a theme park, hundreds of kilometres of tracks and trails.

All this just minutes from the city centre

The city was busy. As we walked around we noticed many different languages and accents. People rode hire electric bikes, scooters and electric Vespa type scooters that are also available for hire.

From 2:00 until around 5:00, many businesses close for siesta. Some days James and I would find a cool place in the shade in one of the many parks and just chill out for an hour or so. Even with all the parks, grand buildings and boulevards, Madrid is still adding to or upgrading its open space. The roads around the palace are largely closed to traffic as are many other roads around the city. There are many tunnels under the city. Sometimes you would be walking in a park and a car would appear from a grass mound. The tunnel entrances and exits were so well landscaped, they blend in with the parkland.

The monument to Cervantes, a sculpture of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. The square is being upgraded with new landscaping and public buildings

There was one place that I was intrigued to visit, Las Ventas, Madrid’s famous bullring that was opened in 1931. I won’t weigh into the debate about whether bullfighting should continue or not. All I will say is that it is woven into the fabric of Spanish culture. James and I saw bullrings in Pamplona and Sahagun whilst on the Camino.

I was a little shocked to learn that we were in Madrid at the start of a full month of bullfights. I did check, all fights were sold out.

Hemingway had this to say about bullfighting – Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter’s honour.

Preparing the ring for this evening’s fights

The bulls aren’t tall, but they are incredibly powerful, weighing in at over 500kg

From our tour, it is clear that there is still an intense pride and love of bullfighting. But there are also those that see this as barbaric and antiquated and out of step with modern Spanish culture.

We visited the museum where there were portraits of many of the the great matadors, both men and women. These included many of Goya’s series of etchings on bullfighting that he prepared and sold in central Madrid over 180 years ago. There were also many outfits.

James noted that many of the matadors honoured in the museum were killed by bulls, very sobering.

From Las Ventas we scooted through busy and highly dangerous city traffic back into the city centre for one last time. Hey, I had to add a sense of drama after visiting the bullring!

Our time in Madrid and in Spain was coming to an end. What a great city. What a great country.

Madrid Gondola

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Our Second Last Post? 7 May 2022

Thursday was such a big day for us, not only in terms of the amount of walking, but also emotionally. It was the culmination of a lot of dreaming, a lot of planning, a lot of travel, a lot of walking and a lot of sweat. But it was also emotional as we shared the day with some of our Camino family. As James as I walked arm in arm back to our hotel that night with the Cathedral softly glowing in the background, we both knew it had been a special day.

We closed the shutters on our room at the Altair Hotel so that we could sleep in and not be woken by the sun. Breakfast was booked for 9:00 and we didn’t intend to be early.

After a great breakfast that included coffee, toasted croissant with real fruit jam, cereals and yoghurt, we headed out into the streets of Santiago. We had arranged to meet James and Leo to help the latter choose a guitar. A few potential stores were identified and we got walking. The first store mainly had classical guitars made in Spain by Alhambra. There were some beautiful instruments. Leo liked a couple but wasn’t really sold on any. As we left I saw a more modern style in the window. We had another store to visit so I parked that in my memory. I also saw this lovely instrument, known as a bandurria.

Local bands play these, but I’ll get to that later

Next we visited a store that was almost exclusively electric guitars, with the exception of a small number of steel string acoustics. It was amazing!

James and Leo admiring the wall of awesomeness

A photo taken by James of me worshiping at the alter of guitar pedals

It was too much. So we headed back to the store with the classical guitars. I asked the owner if we could try the more modern cutaway style. We could tell that as soon as Leo played it, this was the one. Even though he had been unwell, he wore a huge smile as he played.

James, James and I headed to KFC for lunch. Not much more to be said here. Then James and I went for a stroll around part of the city and James got to test drive (in his mind) a Cupra.

Then we headed back for a rest. We had arranged to meet Anthony and Simone, Marios, Dazza, James and Leo for drinks before going to the 7:30 service in the Cathedral. In the end we had to slam our drinks down as we were told to be at the Cathedral at 7:00 or risk not getting a spot. We’re pilgrims and this was a service for us, so we duly obliged and hammered our drinks.

The Cathedral is quite beautiful. James and Leo told us that it was closed and the front was covered in scaffolding when they last walked the Camino 3 years ago. This was going to be a special evening for everyone.

On the way in, we paid tribute to what is said to be the remains of Saint James. Do I weigh into the debate about its authenticity? Nah, all good. Call me if you want my opinion.

Grant, James, Leo, James, Dazza, Simone, Regina, Anthony, Paul and Marios waiting patiently for the pilgrim’s mass

The service began with some lovely singing by a nun. Then there was some organ music. Then there were tributes to the awesome work of the pilgrims from around the world. Then the crowd grew anxious. Would the botafumeiro swing this evening?

Pilgrims glanced at their watches and phones, noting that the end of the service was fast approaching. A bloke started collecting cash. The organ began to play once more.

“Maybe not this evening,” we said to each other forlornly.

Then suddenly there was action at the rope. A group of men were standing by. Another group had what looked to be ash. A wave of excitement raced through the gathering. The botafumeiro would swing this night.

Our Camino family turned to each other and fist pumped.

It was a sight to behold. In the beautiful, warm evening light, the silver botafumeiro swung, spreading its smoke around like a cloud of joy.

We all agreed that this was a perfect way to end our Camino. The circle was complete. We had resolution. Or did we?

All we could do was to find a restaurant, eat paella, drink Rioja and reminisce about what a great experience this had been. We shared a lovely meal with some of our Camino family – James and Leo, Marios and Dazza and Karin from France and Alex from The Netherlands. The latter were a couple who met on the Camino.

Two absolute legends, Marios (aka Ed Sheeran) and Dazza

After dinner, we hugged, said our goodbyes and then took our first steps back into our lives as non-pilgrims.

On the way back through the Cathedral square, James and I heard music and singing and laughter. A local band was playing so we joined the crowd of joyful pilgrims.

Band, complete with bandurria player, wowing the crowd

It was the perfect end to a perfect day in Santiago. But tomorrow held the promise of more Camino magic.

At the start of our Camino, we shared our first pilgrim meal with 5 other pilgrims. Of these, we had the great pleasure of becoming Camino family with 4.

Our first pilgrim meal in Roncesvalles on 3 April 2022 – Grant, Karin, Mads, Mikael, our Italian friend, Dazza and James

If only we knew back then the experiences we would share. But would we all meet in Santiago de Compostela? Would we perfect yet another circle?

You know from above that we met our English brother Dazza.

From our previous blog these guys need no introduction.

Looking hairier and more tanned, it’s Mads and Mikael

But what of Karin, our Dutch Camino veteran and dear friend?

James and I waited in the square patiently as we knew Karin was arriving. On a glorious morning, our friend arrived. We hugged and then shared a coffee and stories.

As we sat, James wondered about our other friend, Evalina from Estonia. This is so weird, but who should walk by?

As is the way of the way, we had to once more say goodbye. We have shared so many wonderful times with these lovely people.

James and I had a train to catch. We met James and Leo for a last coffee, two Aussie dads with their sons sharing this time. It has been such a privilege to meet and walk with these two. It seemed appropriate that we would share our last coffee in Santiago with them. We’ll miss them but I look forward to hearing Leo’s song that he is writing on his new guitar. I also love that he called his new guitar Grant (joking Leo!). We’ll miss you guys.

They too have a blog from their first walk that I previously shared a link to. James is writing a blog for the current trip and I will share the link. They are also fundraising and I will share that link also.

So, there it is, our time as pilgrims on the Camino is over. Our time as pilgrims on our Camino goes on. Buen Camino!

Santiago de Compostela – 5 May 2022

A piper played a crazy, frenetic song as we made our way under the arch and into the cathedral square. There, after 800km and 33 days, was Santiago’s Cathedral. James and I high fived and hugged. We had arrived.

At the moment it’s hard to process what we have experienced. That can wait for a longer post in the next day or so. For now all I can say is that it has been a joy to spend this time with James. We never fought or had cross words, even though there were many days when this was very difficult for him, me or both of us. He accepted the adventure with an amazing attitude that everyone we have met has acknowledged. It has meant that we have made friends that we will remember for life.

Speaking of which, our Camino family has many members. Some had to leave early and head home. Others we met and they either went ahead or we did, though they remain in our thoughts and hearts.

For now, here are some photos of our last day as pilgrims. Our last day on the Camino.

The eucalyptus forest. We spent a lot of time in these, so much so the last few days felt very Australian. Note the absence of pilgrims.

Overlooking Santiago with a couple of taller peregrinó

We did it, well either that or we fooled the pilgrims office into giving us Compostela

Gratuitous shot of our very nice hotel, we felt a little out of place

Our Camino brothers, Mads and Mikael. They made this journey so special for us.

Celebration and farewell dinner – James, Mads, James, Mikael, Leo & Grant

So there you have it, our final day on the Camino. More details will follow I’m sure. Oh, one last thing.

We made it!

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Out of Palas del Reí

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This Whole Thing’s Absurd! 4 May 2022

We wake. Actually we get woken. Usually by some numpty who decided that a series of 7 plastic bags was a great way to store stuff in their pack. They usually rise just when you have hit your deepest sleep and your body is starting to forgive you for the pain you inflicted upon it yesterday. But no, their symphony of scrunching and crunching wakes you. Your Achilles aches and is close to being frozen solid. Your hips are where you point to when the Doctor holds up a doll and asks you where it hurts. My shoulder still hurts from old rugby injuries as well as the fall when I slipped on ice in Roncesvalles over a month ago. You check the time. That extra 73 minutes of sleep would have been really great. Thanks plastic bagger!

You lie in bed when you know you should get up and pack, neck a coffee and some toast and then hit the road. But as you lie there, all you can think about is just being still for a day. Not moving at all, just being. But somehow you will your body to get out of the bunk and get on with the day.

Within the hour, you are back walking. Didn’t I just finish this a few minutes ago? Why am I walking again? Oh look at the pilgrim’s toys hanging from their pack. Look at their shoes, nothing but blisters and pain there. I hope they have a hat, this cloud will burn off soon and we’ll have nothing but sun all day. Am I getting a blister? Should I stop to remove that tiny pebble from my shoe. Am I hungry? Do I care? As you follow a line a pilgrims weaving through the streets of a town or down a country lane or a tiny little track or over a bridge, you continually think – this whole thing’s absurd!

The Camino hamster wheel breaks you down when you hit the last 100km. I certainly never thought this was absurd as I ate pinchos with James, Simone, Anthony, Donna, Jazz and Sam in Pamplona. Or shared drinks in Logroño with Alice, Siobhan, Xavier and Nathalie. Or watched Basil Fawlty throw pizzas with Mikael and Mads in Castrojeriz. Or walked and talked about life with Karin.

I think it’s been too many bunk beds, too many broken nights sleep, being woken too early, too much repacking and moving on. Walking. Walking. Walking. James and I are ready just to rest. But before we can, we have one more big day. No more faffing around.

After a little over 30km today, we have 37 more tomorrow to reach Santiago de Compostela. Like James and Leo, we’ve booked a hotel room for tomorrow night and the night after #incentivise. Yep, we’ve totally incentivised ourselves to get there.

There are other more important reasons other than a nice room. Mikael and Mads have arrived in Santiago this evening and don’t leave until Friday morning. It would be so great to have a catch up with them. And Peter from Seattle too.

Anyway, back to the hamster wheel. This morning we rise to a fine day in Palas del Reí. The forecast was for a warm day, so we dressed light even though it was only 8 degrees when we started out. It was only a matter of minutes before we joined the conga line of pilgrims heading out of town. We powered on to the village of Casanova (see above photo, move on). We stopped for a break and caught up with a few familiar pilgrims. There a quite a few pilgrims who you see every few days, but circumstance and the language barrier prevents any meaningful connection. There was a lovely old Italian guy who we saw everyday for weeks. He didn’t speak a word of English and I only had the two Italian words I knew, “ciao” and “prego”. He would always smile and laugh as we crossed paths and we would smile and give him a big, “ciao prego!!!”

Back to today’s trail. The hamster wheel had us going down to cross a creek, then up, then down to cross a creek, then up, then down to cross a creek. You get the idea. It’s a form of Camino torture.

The eucalyptus plantations we saw yesterday were even more extensive today. In the warm sun, they released their aroma and we were reminded of home. I love that smell so much.

Before reaching Melide, we stopped in a little village as a lady was offering wax sellos (stamps) for credenciales. I stupidly was first in line. The lady kept barking something at me in Spanish. I shrugged my shoulders. Then she pointed to a sign. Yes, I would like the wax with a little scallop shell. She barked at me again and pointed to the sign. For 2€ this was getting a little much for me. Then a lady next to me said, do I want the conche or feet in the wax. The shell I said. The lady proceeded to make a hash of the whole thing. When she finished I offered her the only cash I had, a 50€ note. This was too much for her. James stepped in and offered to pay for mine as he and Leo also got the wax stamps. The woman shrugged and then waved me away dismissively. All good, I thought, the stamp looked pretty good. Then I realised she had the last laugh, she had put it in upside down.

Somehow this seemed to fit with my mood today

After however many hours, miles or kilometres (choose your poison), we walked into Melide.

We snaked our way into the centre of town and the centre of the pulpo universe, Pulpería Ezequiel. If you’re not familiar with this Galician delicacy, basically it is octopus cooked til tender, sliced into small pieces and then dressed with paprika, salt and olive oil. You are given tooth picks to eat it. When done well, it’s quite delightful.

From Melide, we made tracks. We still had about 14km to cover and a belly full of beer and pulpo would not help.

We stop 3km from Arzua at Ribadiso for beers and ice cream. A strange mix, but somehow it works.

The boys crossing one of the many creeks we crossed this day

It’s a steep walk up into the town of Arzua where we have single beds, not damn bunk beds, for the night.

As usual on our hamster wheel, we check in, get stamps, choose a bed, dump our packs, have showers, rest, look at rooms for the next evening, have a cold beer, rest, move with great pain and stiffness, blog. The whole thing’s absurd!

Dinner is at an Italian restaurant that is empty when we enter and packed to the brim when we leave. They encourage drawing on the walls, reminiscent of the fondue restaurant in Paris.

We enjoy a great meal and a lovely 2017 Reserve Rioja.

The Aussie Drop Bears carb loading for a big day tomorrow

Now we are once again ready for bed even though the sun hasn’t set. Pilgrims are tired, sore and angry buggers.

Here is something you see everywhere in Galicia. It’s either for seed storage or for drying the dead before cremation, we can’t quite get a conclusive answer

Hamburguesa – 3 May 2022

The long line of pilgrims makes its way through the verdant fields and forests of Galicia. As we pass a field, we note how handsome and come hither the cattle are. For once they are not covered with crap. They are various shades of tan and light brown. Some lull happily on their sides. Even the bulls look overly happy, like they know something you don’t. Then we see that there is a really stylish cafe amongst an assortment of farm buildings. As we approach, there is a menu board next to the trail. It proudly advertises a range of hamburgers (hamburguesas in Spanish). And next to the menu is a photo of one of the light brown cows, it’s soft eyes and long lashes staring straight at you.

“Beer and a burger anyone?”

We said good morning to Simone and Anthony as they passed us in the stillness and sunshine of Portomarin. Anthony offered me coffee, but James saw a cafe open and I took a chance. The only other cafe had a line of about 30 pilgrims, so this looked like a better bet. Ha! Just like “Spanish time” – if it says it opens at 8:00, 8:45 will do – there is something we call “Spanish service”. It comes in a few different forms. Let’s take a dive.

Spanish Service 1 – you see a local order something, perhaps a cafe con leche. You see that it is strong, not milky, like too many cafe con leches. So, you order one. Instead of the nice, strong coffee, you get a cup that is largely milk with a splash of espresso.

Spanish Service 2 – read my Foncebadon blog and how it took 2 hours for 10 people on one table to order.

Spanish Service 3 – this morning the cafe is pumping. As I mentioned in yesterday’s blog, there are a lot more pilgrims now. The reason is that many join at Sarria as you can receive a Compostela for walking 100km. Anyway, there are so many more pilgrims. The cafe we go into has one lady taking orders, making the coffees, going into the kitchen to make toast, cutting oranges and feeding them into a tiny hand juicing machine, etc. she takes an order, turns her back and gets to work, as you would. Pilgrims weap as they wait for their morning coffees and pastries, doing a head count of everyone before them and calculating in their minds how long this may take.

But there is such a charm to the Spanish service as well. Some places are pumping and they take orders and get everything out so quickly with minimal fuss. Like where we had second breakfast at Gonzar. The fresh juice and coffee was amazing.

We caught up with Leo and James who did a 42km day yesterday to get from Triacastella to Portomarin. It was good to walk with our Australian mates.

2 way markers a mere 20 or so metres apart!

Anyway, back to the hamburgers, they were amazing.

The meat was raised just beyond the fence, my my it tasted good

We caught up with the 3 April Crew for a beer and some more laughs. The afternoon was pretty uneventful as the way wound through a series of lush valleys, eucalyptus plantations, natural forests and farmland.

James and Leo made some friends.

Spanish kids on holidays get to walk the Camino

We arrived in Palas del Reí as the church bells struck 4. We checked into the Zendoria Albergue, a very funky place a block or two off the Camino.

The boys in POD bunks at Albergue Zandoria

I shaved.

I guess today was pretty uneventful. We’ve been walking pretty much nonstop for over four weeks and we’re ready to sleep in and not spend a good deal of the day walking. As we run into pilgrims we’ve now known for weeks, there is only one question asked first – when are you getting to Santiago? For James and I, my guess is Friday, but who knows. It’s time to sit down with the maps and figure out the last 60 odd kilometres.