thelongcamino

That was the Worse Meal of my Life – 17 April 2022

It turns out that Grant has caught a cold from somewhere. Albergue are full of coughing and sneezing peregrinó. After a terrible night, he decides to ship his pack to Fromista and carry a day pack. It turns out to be a wise move. After a light breakfast, the trail descends gently from Castrojeriz before hitting a brutal little climb known as the mule killer.

With barely an introduction, we’re heading up a 12% slope

But given this is our 15th day of walking since leaving St Jean, we don’t even pause for a rest and make the brutal climb in one push.

The view back to Castrojeriz from the top of the mule killer

After half a kilometre or so of flat walking, we’re making an even steeper descent down the other side. The views are spectacular and we all agree it is so vast it is difficult to portray in photos.

The boys kept a quick pace across the plain. After another 5-6km we crossed a bridge and into the Provence of Palencia.

Around many areas on the Meseta revegetation is occurring. This provides shady respite from the heat of the sun out here.

A young forest on the outskirts of Itero de La Vega

We stop in Itero de La Vega with a host of other pilgrims for a cafe con leche and some sustenance beyond white bread, butter and jam. The fresh eggs and ham are tasty.

From there, we enter a treeless expanse for the next 8 or so kilometres. We all dream of our favourite meals from home as we settle into the meditation of the Meseta.

We stop at Boadilla del Camino for a cold drink. The day is warming and it is hot on the white paths. From Boadilla del Camino to Fromista, we walk almost entirely next to the Canal de Castilla. We see one boat.

The Camino passes over the lock to enter into the village of Fromista. It is after 1:00 and we are hot and hungry.

We make our way through the village, partying again on this Easter Sunday, to the municipal Albergue. Grant’s pack is there waiting.

Instead of a shower, we head out for some lunch. A local directs us to a bar. I suspect he either gets a commission or he owns the place. Last night’s pizza bar is 5 star compared to this place. The service is woeful. When we ask for something from the menu we’re told they don’t have it. Then the waiter runs away and returns some minutes later to say they do. I guess they just had to check the freezer. The salad was just passable, the eggs and meat less so. The calamari was edible, but only to a starving pilgrim. Mikael looked at me and said, “that is the worst meal of my life.” We all nod in agreement.

After 2 weeks we are all tired of the white bread diet that is offered in the villages – white toast for breakfast and the bocadillos with various fillings for lunch. I’d kill for one of mum’s roast dinners or one of Claire’s delicious home cooked meals. At some point I need to find a good supermarket and buy some supplies to make a home cooked meal. But given it’s Easter, many places are closed and so we have to roll the dice at local bars.

We did pass what looked to be an expensive restaurant though and I’m at the point where I’m ready to splash some cash for some good food. Just think, almost 2 weeks ago we were in Pamplona living it up on the most delicious foods.

The crowning glory of Fromista is the 11th century Iglesia de San Martin, which is one of the finest examples of the Romanesque style in Spain. It sits proudly in the square close to our albergue like a museum piece.

We have dinner at a restaurant next to the albergue. Thankfully the food is lovely, as is the beer.

We’re all becoming more hobbit like, enjoying our beer and craving a good meal.

Fun facts, the Danish like marshmallow balls coated in chocolate that they used to call . . . well, we need not recall that dark time in Danish culinary history.

For James and I, we’re missing Vegemite.

We’re all missing brown bread, muesli and good yoghurt for breakfast. Someone once called the pilgrim diet the “beige” diet. Let’s hope that tomorrow we add to our colour palette.

The Meseta is playing its tricks on our minds. Our walking becomes automatic, leaving idle hours for our minds to wander. Tomorrow we walk 20km, nearly all next to a road. The mental journey that is Part 2 of the Camino continues.

Mystery on the Meseta – 16 April 2022

It started like any other day on the Camino. Mikael’s alarm went off at 7:00am. We dozed on. Then Grant got up and shook James to get moving. Each minute wasted is a long hot minute on the Meseta. The pilgrims had just over 20km to smash out today and there was not a cloud in the sky.

The moon setting over Hornillos del Camino

After a breakfast of albergue coffee, toast, butter & jam and dry cake, we were ready to hit the road. It was cold, but shorts were the order of the day, yet again. As we climbed out of Hornillos del Camino, we were glad yet again for such gorgeous weather.

There is only one song that comes to mind, Chris Whitley’s “Big Sky Country” and his lyric – kissing time, kissing time, goodbye.

As we hit the top of the plateau our world opens up, we were in the middle of a sea of grass. In the distance wind turbines danced slowly in the morning sun. If only we knew what would befall some of us on this day!

As we wandered, James started having some knee troubles. Perhaps he is a mountain goat not made for the long flat stretches we walk today. Then Mads started to get sore feet, a sure prelude to the dreaded blister. Then on the wind we heard some jazz being played. Were we starting to go mad on the morning of day 2 on the Meseta?

Then in the distance a building appeared like a ship lazily sailing across the calm ocean of green grass. We had found utopia, or Albergue Fuente Sidres as it is named – the Albergue of the cider fountain. This new building was hosted by a lovely lady who made fresh food daily and filled us with strong cafe con leche. We all tried the cake, sensational. Mads attended to his feet, Mikael tested and then rated the bathroom (5 star by his account) and James checked his knees. By days end, would the 4 pilgrims that make up the fellowship of the Camino still be together, or would the fellowship be broken?

Albergue Fuente Sidres – if we ever come back, we are staying here

The pilgrims pressed on, through the heat and the pain. The sun and the wind was at our backs, urging us ever onward.

Soon we started the descent into Hontanas. We ran into our friend Manny, always lovely to catch up with fellow pilgrims from the class of Camino 2022.

The Meseta has a lot of biodiversity. Bird song is a constant soundtrack as we walk

Hontanas is a lovely village and it would be very easy to drop our packs, open our sleeping bags and spend a night here. But we have more miles to cover before we rest. Mads starts limping as does James. I give James my walking pole so he now has 4 limbs getting him across the lonely, hot Meseta. I can only lend Mads encouragement. I start to sweat even more.

Mikael offers us all water from a local fountain.

We decline, hiding our almost empty water bottles.

We round a bend and are confronted with the remains of an old mill.

All that remains of the village of San Miguel

As we slowly descend through the valley we are forced back onto a small rural road. A man on a horse walks by with a “buenos días”. I spy a pilgrim with a unique approach to footwear.

Around a bend and we are confronted with the ruins of the the 14th century Convent of San Anton.

Yes, a road runs through the ruins #respect

Then Castrojeriz comes into view. It seems so close, I can sense the fellowship breathe a sigh of relief as 3 of us are struggling.

But no matter how fast or hard we walk, it doesn’t seem to be getting any closer.

Maybe it’s a mirage, the closer we get the further away it moves. The mood changes in the fellowship. We’re hungry and hot and tired and Gandalf (Grant) needs a cold beer.

It’s so close we can almost touch it. Then before we know it, we’re walking up into Castrojeriz. The smell of pizza wafts on the air. We need to find a bed and yet this village just keeps going on and on. Eventually we find the municipal albergue. We stagger up the stairs and check in.

After a beer and some lunch, we retire to our bunks for some rest before dinner.

We were told the pizza bar opened at 6:00, so like many other hungry pilgrims, we were there just before opening. And then we waited. And waited. And waited. Finally Fawlty Towers opened at around 6:45, hey Spanish time.

Sybil, Polly, Basil and Manuel ran a tight, if slightly frantic establishment. Thankfully Basil was throwing the fresh dough. When the pizzas arrived they were exceptional.

I wasn’t feeling too good, so I went for the chilli and garlic diavola. James and Mads, still in pain, went for the bbq. Mikael, looking fresh had the carbonara.

One of these pilgrims is not like the others

Sunset from the bar was lovely.

As three of us staggered home, Mikael sang show tunes and danced the dance of the honey badger in the streets of Castrojeriz. It is a rare dance that involves the reenactment of the badger attacking a snake and then ripping off its head before eating it. The whole thing was dramatic, but also quite beautiful. Mikael improvised the music as he danced.

Meanwhile there are questions to be answered. Has someone been swapping Mads’ socks causing him blisters for the first time in 2 weeks? Did someone put a rock in James’ shoe? Did someone pass on a rare form of covid to Grant? Will any of these three be able to walk 25km tomorrow?

Tune in for the next instalment of Mystery on the Meseta to find out.

Hedonístic Week – 15 April 2022

I look at the time, 1:00am. I can still hear partying in the streets of Burgos. I go back to sleep. I’m woken by the sound of someone singing. I check the time, 3:30am. I go back to sleep. I’m woken by something banging somewhere. I can still hear partying in the streets. It’s 5:00am. Back to sleep. I wake just after 6:00am. Silence outside. Mikael’s alarm goes off at 7:00am and Mads, Brian, James, Mikael and I don’t hesitate to start packing our gear.

For now, Holy Week feels more like hedonistic week.

After a dreary breakfast at the hostel, we head to a cafe near the cathedral for a strong coffee.

As the four us are enjoying a coffee, a fight breaks out between a waitress and a young woman. It’s hilarious to witness such a thing when you have no idea what the protagonists are saying to each other. At one point, the young lady approaches the bar and necks a tube of sugar. It seems to be some sort of protest, but I’m not entirely sure. Then she returns to a seat and puts her feet on a chair at which point the waitress really loses her cool and starts yelling at her. We decide to leave quietly and discreetly.

The streets of Burgos are almost empty after the huge party last night. It is very peaceful as we make our way out of the city. We buy a fresh baguette, jamón and cheese for a lunch on the road. The path is flat as we pass the University and then leave town.

Burgos is named after the burgoes, large fortifications that surround the old town. They are something to behold.

Looking back at the walls of the old city

The first 11km are flat all the way to Tardajos. We stop for a coffee and a chance to remove our shoes and socks. We talk about cars as we enjoy sitting in the courtyard of the bar.

From Tardajos, we have a short walk to Rabe de las Calzadas. This tiny village should be renamed as the gateway to the Meseta. Right as we walk past the last building, the trees disappear, the track turns white and the heat kicks in.

The first time we Aussies put on sunscreen. The Danes are still sunburnt from a week ago

There is something magical about the Meseta though. After the chaos of Burgos, we find peace and space. Mikael and Mads feel at home as the flat reminds them of Denmark. They start singing Danish pop songs spontaneously. James and I feel at home as it reminds us of the central west of New South Wales in Australia. We could be somewhere near Dubbo, although there are wind turbines here.

After walking across a plateau, we have a steep descent into Hornillos del Camino, a pretty little town set between meseta plateau.

We check into the Meeting Place Albergue. The lady at the desk is so happy and the building is very new. There is a communal dinner cooked by her brother. We can’t help but book in. This gives us a few hours to rest, always appreciated. We have some long days ahead on the meseta and we need to make sure our bodies, but more importantly our feet, are up to the job.

As the afternoon draws on, I enjoy a beer in the garden whilst playing the guitar from the albergue.

We enjoy a communal meal at the Albergue of home cooked paella. It is lovely. We talk to Stefan from Canadá who is walking from Burgos to Leon, and Ellen from New York and Lisa from Colorado who started the Camino del Norte, but decided to shift over to the Camino Frances.

Everyone is tired and hot after our first few hours on the meseta in the middle of the day. Tomorrow we will try to get as many miles done as we can before it is too hot.

Burgers in Burgos – 14 April 2022

An alarm keeps going off in our room, but each time it is snoozed and so we doze off for another 10 or so minutes. As I begin to wake, I can hear pilgrims readying for the day. Then I doze again. At some point I check my phone, 7:40!

Collectively we rise and start the day. We know that the local bar is not serving breakfast. We have also heard that the day starts with a rocky climb. All with no cafe con leche. We’re the last to leave the albergue.

As we reach the summit, the bush thins and we’re greeted by a cross. Amongst other things, a pair of Adidas joggers hang from the crossbar and someone has left a double plugger (thong, flip flop) amongst the rocks.

As we descend out of the fog I talk to Peter from Seattle. It’s good to hear other perspectives on the world. He has led an interesting life and has some good Seattle stories. In the distance we get glimpses of Burgos through the fog.

At the village of Cardenuela Riopico, we join the queue at a small cafe. James and I have fresh Orange juice, cafe con leche and a bacon and egg roll. I see a lady cutting into something I’ve never seen before in my life, a croissant totally covered in chocolate. Mind blown!

We have a flat walk along a road before we hit the first sign of a big city, the freeway.

Whilst the signs point for us to go straight ahead, continuing on the road, my guidebook has another route. It means we walk on a gravel track around the edge of the Burgos airport. For the hour or so we walk the perimeter, we see one small plane land. We’re a little surprised that the airport isn’t much busier. We’re glad that we took this route and not the busy road.

The guidebook also has another ace up it’s sleeve when we hit the main road, ignore the signs once more and follow the Rio Arlanzon (river) into the city. The path is initially a slim dirt track through scrub. The closer we get to the city, the better the path gets and the busier. The fog has been burnt off and we walk in beautiful sunshine.

We pass signs that tell of the fauna that live in the reserve next to the river including a colourful lizard, bird species and a viper. There are cyclists, runners and walkers all enjoying the day.

With tired feet, we make it into the city and our accommodation at the Hostel Catedral Burgos. As we walk into the front door, there is a queue of people checking in. It takes us about 45 minutes to get checked in. Mads and Mikael make the most of the time by calling their brother Morton for his 20th birthday. He’s had a big night and has to put on the boots for another one in four hours. Happy Birthday Morton! (I hope the spelling is correct).

By now we are starving. James, Mads, Mikael and I walk the city looking for somewhere to eat when Mikael suggests we eat burgers in Burgos. We find Hammmbur and order big as it’s now 3:30 in the afternoon.

We inhale chips with various condiments, mustard, ketchup, salsa and mayonnaise. the burgers are juicy and delicious.

After showers, washing clothes and a rest, we enter the streets of Burgos. It is Semana Santa, Holy Week, across Spain and the locals are partying hard. Buckets of beer on ice flow from the bars to happy young locals. They sing and laugh in the warm sunshine.

James and I wanted to visit the cathedral, but as we turn a corner, we realise this will be impossible.

A large parade is making its way to the cathedral. Music plays, wild trumpet music that reminds me of the New Orleans style. There are drums and strange little instruments that are wielded by people in masks. Television cameras televise the event. And then, it is gone and the city returns to feasting and drinking as if nothing ever happened.

All I can do is get a few shots of the rear of the cathedral. It is magnificent, made of limestone that always reflects light beautifully.

As I lie in bed, I can hear so many people outside still enjoying the night. It could be a long one. I hope we get some sleep tonight as tomorrow we are in the wild, treeless land of the Meseta. The next stage of our Camino begins.

Kort og godt- Short & Easy – 13 April 2022

Each day is a gift and today it is another gift to spend time with Mads and Mikael. I drop back and I listen as James asks them questions and they chat and laugh. They are patient and open. Their friendship on this journey is such a wonderful thing.

Straight out of the gate we start climbing up into a new landscape of dark woods, clear skies and fog. It rained again last night, though once more providence smiles upon us and we walked on a beautiful morning.

As we climb, the oaks are still to drop all of their leaves. Frost is on the ground in areas. Before long we approach a memorial to 300 Spanish shot in this area during the civil war – 1936 to 1939. The memorial is topped by doves of peace. We are reminded of the pain that this land has suffered when a country kills its own for a belief.

This afternoon I listen to some music, all chosen randomly. A song starts playing from The wonderful album by K.D Lang, Neko Case and Sarah Veirs. The lyrics are – the hungry fools who rule the world can’t catch us, surely they can’t ruin everything, I just want, want to be here with you, not bracing for what comes next.

After a steep descent, we climb to the Alto de Pedraja at 1,120m. We walk through ancient forests and newly planted pine forests. Amongst the dead leaves from last summer, little flowers bloom, reminders that life goes on and will always find a way. We pilgrims can pass for a hundred years and it is but an instant in the life of this landscape.

We descend into the pretty little village of San Juan. We pass from forest into pastures. Mads and James drop back and Mikael and I talk. We both appreciate how special it is to be out here with family.

Mads was born with extremely poor eyesight. This wasn’t picked up until he was around 6 years old. Mads is such a gentle soul. It is special to see how they relate as brothers, so kind with each other.

After a cafe con leche, we continue on for the last 6km. I call home to Claire and then Mum and Dad. It’s lovely to be able to see our loved ones on the other side of the world.

We stop in Atapuerca at the Albergue de Peregrinos. We’re the first to arrive and get a great little room for the 4 of us.

Atapuerca is famous as it is the place where the oldest human remains have been found in Europe, 1.5 million years.

We have lunch at the local bar, bocadillos with jamón and omelette, lovely.

After lunch we return to the Albergue as more pilgrims come in. We see Darren, Jasmine, Maria, Olaf and others from around the world.

For us, it is like a rest day.

For dinner we walk in the evening sun to the bar. We catch up with Peter from Seattle and share a beer. Then we enjoy calamari, ensalada and a vino tinto.

As we return to the Albergue the sky turns on a light show for us. We are readying ourselves for the city of Burgos tomorrow. Easter is but hours away. Who knows what that might bring.

Headwinds and Highways – 12 April 2022

It rained heavily overnight. After deyasuno at the Albergue, we were soon squelching our way through clay mud. Close by a procession of trucks and cars roared by. The only peace was when the Camino veered away from the road into a village. You know it’s going to be a tough 28km when all of the boys are complaining about it being a little uninteresting.

Leaving the region of La Rioja for Castilla y León, mud on our feet

Gone are the vineyards, replaced by fields of fresh green spring shoots that dance in the wind. Today that wind was at our faces, gusting and making it a slog with the muddy path. We stopped in the village of Viloria for a coffee and sustenance. We tasted the small local mandarines, a flavour explosion!

We grinded away through a few more villages, always into the wind, always with the highway close by with its roaring trucks. They are building a new freeway through the region, no doubt the path of The Camino will change once more.

We stopped in Belorado for lunch at the lovely little Albergue and restaurant.

Irish, French, English, Dutch & German Camino friends enjoying a long lunch in Belorado

From Belorado it was a slow, long slog to Villafranca Montes De Oca. We passed a little village that had a church built into the cliff face.

For tired pilgrims, this is a little too far to walk off the trail

As the landscape lost its drama, Mikael and Mads said it reminded them of Denmark, highest point above sea level being Mollehoj at 171m.

Just to remind us what today was about, the last few hundred metres into Villafranca was right next to the highway.

After 28km we were ready for a shower and some down time out of the wind and away from the highway at San Anton Abad Albergue . Now we have a choice to make, a huge day into Burgos or two smaller days. After 120km over the last 4 days, I’m leaning toward two smaller days, but who knows.

We wash clothes and rest before our pilgrim’s dinner in the restaurant. James and I share dinner with Sharon from Victoria, Australia and Brian from Banff, Canada.

Pilgrims dinner at San Anton Abad Albergue

As we make our way to bed, we see it is raining again. Thus far we have been lucky to not have to walk in rain. We can only hope we wake to a clear morning.

It’s been a tough few days and talking to others, we are contemplating a shorter day tomorrow. Buenos noches.

Nyborg is Newcastle! 11 April 2022

In another case of Camino magic, Mads and Mikael tell us that they are from Nyborg in Denmark. This translates as Newcastle, where James and I are from.

The western side of the river in Najera is the old town. The cathedral (undergoing major renovations) and a host of buildings are crammed between the river and cliffs.

In a gap in the cliffs, the way made its way through a pine forest and back into the red clay and stone vineyards of La Rioja. The wind blew hard at our backs and we were agin thankful for a sunny day. Then the vineyards disappeared and we were walking across a green sea on a ribbon of white.

We stopped in Azofra for a cafe con leche, a lot of pilgrims on the way today. Then onto a “model” town, Ciruena. As we ascended the hill into town, we looked over to see people playing golf.

When I say that Ciuena is a model town, it was a series of 3 storey apartment blocks built over basement car parking. They all looked great, but the village had no heart and almost no people, apart from golfers.

From there, we had about 6km to Santo Domingo. Mikael, Mads, Dazza, James and I decided we’d be the fellowship of the Camino. I was Gandalf the Grey, James Frodo, Mikael Aragorn, Mads Legolas and Dazza Gimli the dwarf. There followed a good hour or more of Lord of the Rings quotes or singing of music from the movies.

On the way into Santo Domingo we were quite hungry and reminisced about food from our homes and what we eat at Christmas. Little did we all know that this was our way of externalising the fact that today we were all homesick.

I mentioned that chickens were kept in the cathedral at Santo Domingo. Mads and Mikael looked at me strangely, so I told them the tale of poor Mikael, the Danish pilgrim (word of caution, this may not be factually correct, but I don’t care).

A family of pilgrims from Denmark were making their way to Santiago. There were the parents and a handsome son, Mikael. When they stopped at Santo Domingo, the daughter of the Mayor fell for this Danish lothario. Sadly, the feelings weren’t reciprocated. Jilted, the Mayor’s daughter put a silver spoon in Mikael’s pack. She then raised the alarm that he was a thief. The Mayor promptly arranged for poor Mikael to be hung. His parents continued to Santiago. On their way back through Santo Domingo, they found that their son was still alive, hanging from the tree. They confronted the Mayor who was just sitting down to a dinner of roast chicken. Our son is still alive, they said. Your son is as alive as this chicken on my plate, the Mayor replied, at which point his roast chicken turned into a live chicken. Mikael was promptly freed and returned to Nyborg, Denmark with his parents where he had an amazing career in musical theatre. His greatest hit show was a collaboration with an Australian guy, Santo Domingo the Musical. The lead role was played by Hugh Jackman in the film adaptation.

After a lunch in a plaza next to the cathedral, we just had to go see the chickens.

Rumour confirmed, there be chickens in this cathedral

We promptly left Santo Domingo on a mission to reach Granon. I had read that there was an Albergue in the cathedral there which promised an interesting experience. And so we found ourselves at Hospital de Peregrinos San Juan Bautista.

As promised, it is part of the cathedral. Our room is on the first floor, or thereabouts.

We joined some pilgrims for a service at 7:00, then dinner at 7:30.

The cathedral is on the other side of the wall to the left

After dinner, our hospitalero led us through a door next to my bed and into the upper part of the cathedral. He turned the lights off, lit a candle and then asked each of us to speak from the heart in our own language. It was extremely moving to hear everyone speak and it topped off a magical experience on the Camino.

Afterward we could explore the cathedral. For a very small town, it was again quite amazing. Though there are signs of trouble. A building like this needs a lot of maintenance at some cost. We could see here and there several problems with the building that had just been patched over. It will need a lot more generous peregrinó if it is to keep thriving into the future.

Now we can only hope for a comfortable sleep on our mats. Buenos noches.

The Flow & the Vibe – 10 April 2022

Another 30km day ahead. I asked myself, as James lay sleeping, “should we have a rest day in Logroño?”

That’s what staying in a fancy hotel does to you, it makes you soft! Instead we packed and hit the streets for breakfast. The city was being cleaned up after a big Saturday evening. I woke at 3:30am and could still hear people partying.

It was a lovely walk out of Logroño. The way was well marked. At one point we passed the La Rioja Courthouse.

From there, completely inconsistent with the guidebook, we followed a pathway through parks and then open areas. It was some of the best walking on the Camino thus far.

We met Peter from Seattle and Joe from South Korea as we made our way past this lake and then climbed out of the valley. Whilst James spoke with Joe, I had a great conversation with Peter. At 58, he is really at a crossroads in his life. We discussed faith and relationships and wine and travel. He is a really good travel companion.

Peter, Joe and James, Logroño in the background

In no time we arrived in Navarrete. Our Danish friends, Mikael and Mads were enjoying a coffee near the cathedral. Suddenly the hunters had become the hunted. We also ran into Darren (Dazza) from Wimbledon, our bogan mate.

Dazza, Mikael, Mads, James, Joe and Jasmine

The cathedral in Navarrete was extraordinary. These small villages in Spain have art that I have never seen before in France or Italy.

From Navarrete, we powered on for 7.5 km to Ventosa with the promise of a fine La Rioja with lunch. Sadly, the main restaurant was closed and so we had to contend with the pilgrim cafe. It was busy this Sunday afternoon as pilgrims came into town hungry and thirsty after 20km of walking. We enjoyed a vino blanco with Mikael, Mads, Joe and Peter.

After lunch, James walked the last 10km with Mads, the younger brother at 23, whilst I walked with Mikael, the 30 year old. The kilometres passed quickly as Mikael and I talked about the arts and politics and he sang musical theatre. When he returns home to Copenhagen from the Camino, he will be the principal of the Danish school of musical theatre. He is an amazing person and I love his companionship. As he said, we let the kids talk together whilst we adults had a conversation.

Yes, we all agree that Hugh Jackman is awesome

We walked through such beautiful landscapes today, yet the town of Najera is a little tired. Some towns on the Camino really embrace it, others seem to tolerate it and I believe Najera is the latter.

We ended up staying at the donativo Albergue. This means you pay what you like. The hospitaleros are an Australian and a Canadian. Judging by their manner, they can’t wait to get out of this town and onto the Camino again.

After a shower, we walk to the local bar for a beer and then dinner. It has been a great day on the Camino. Who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Sleepers, Wake! 9 April 2022

Snore. Fart. Creak. Snore. Creak. Fart. It’s almost 6:00 in the Albergue at Los Arcos and the sleepers are stirring for the long day ahead. Some of us are keen to get to Logroño, about 28km away. The alternative is to stop at 18km in the village of Viana. Last night it rained. Thankfully when I look outside it is dry.

The cathedral in Los Arcos, early morning

We have a cafe con leche at a small bar and then join a few pilgrims on the way in the dark. The path weaves its way through paddocks, flush with the green of spring growth. James and I see 2 deer run across the path before us, into a paddock and then into the wild hills.

Today’s song is gravity, by John Mayer. Fellow pilgrims look at us strangely as we sing in the morning. El loco peregrinos from Down Under. After a cafe con leche, we make the short descent into Torres del Rio. If you have ever seen the movie The Way, this is where they come across the whacky hospitalero, El Ramon. If you think that this character is unreal, he does surface in Jack Hitt’s excellent book upon which some of The Way is based. Torres del Río is small, but affluent. Some of the buildings appear to have been recently renovated and there is a great looking new restaurant.

We climb steeply out of Torres del Rio and up onto a plateau. There is a strange little garden of cairns that we happily add to.

The whole thing fell over just after I took this shot . . . Perhaps

The rural landscapes of this area of Spain are exceptional. The vineyards, olive groves and paddocks are immaculately maintained. So many vistas look like paintings as there appears to be nothing out of place. We had calls home to Australia to check in with family. James’ sisters, Alex and Georgie, both have Covid and are at home feeling miserable.

Today James was like a toro, a bull. He powered up hills and across the flat. I struggled to keep up. We fuelled ourselves with bananas and apples and bocadillos, rolls with omelette, cheese and jamón. As the morning was turning, we made it to Viana for a cold cerveza as more pilgrims came into town. On the table next to us was Luna, the dogegrino we saw yesterday.

Luna was really tired and had a sore paw which is now strapped. She is a lovely dog though didn’t appreciate being woken up by an Australian solely for a photo for his blog.

As we sat, Mads and Mikael also walked in. “We have been trying to catch you two all day”, they said. I thought they were joking, but they were deadly serious. They joke that James and I are doing this in a car as they only ever see us drinking coffee or beer. They are lovely, friendly guys in their mid-20’s from Denmark, both with big smiles. It’s always lovely to see them.

As today was our 7th day of walking, James asked if we could skip the Albergue and stay in a motel with a bath. It was more expensive, but I agreed. I think he had me at bath. As I write, it is 3:30 in the afternoon and we are at the J&G Hotel in Logroño. I’ve had my bath, nearly fell asleep to be honest, and James is in there now listening to his music. Once he’s done, we will go and have a wander around Logroño. I hope that our good friends, Karin, Nathalie and Xavier made it to Logroño. It would be nice to keep our Camino family together. But it’s hard as everyone has their own pace. Not everyone has El toro to pull them along.

If peregrinó get stuck for gear, Viana has them covered at this vending machine. I wonder who they’re posing for though, fellow peregrinó?

It’s like a battlefield. We doff our hats to the fallen, the vines that didn’t make it. Rioja 2022

Logroño at the base of the hill, very sore and tired here

Puente de Piedra, Logroño with the pilgrim’s office on the left. Our hotel, and bath, is just on the other side of the bridge.

Random fact, Barry Jones wrote Sleepers, Wake! in 1982. Barry was a genius who became a politician passionate about Australia. If you ever want to see a game show go off the rails, just google Barry Jones.

After our baths, we headed out into the city. Who should we see but Siobhan and Alice as they made their way off the bridge. We joined them as we made our way into the city for a drink.

Our Irish mates, Alice and Siobhan, looking great in front of the beautiful cathedral

As we wandered around the Plaza del Mercado, we ran into Nathalie and Xavier. They told us Karin had stopped in Viana, but she wanted to know whether we made it to Logroño.

All 6 of us, Siobhan and Alice had never met Nathalie and Xavier before, sat in the Plaza to enjoy a drink. Sadly Siobhan and Alice and Nathalie and Xavier were finishing their Camino tomorrow and heading home. They have all been such wonderful travelling companions, the Camino won’t seem the same without them. Their smiling faces, laughter and great conversation.

The last supper, sadly these guys head home tomorrow

After dinner, we attend the cathedral. The music and singing was beautiful.

It seemed like a fitting end to our first week on the Camino. At times it seems like no time at all, but then it also seems like a long time. Great friendships made and then gone so quickly. Our bodies are tired and sore. Tomorrow we have another long day, 30km. We can only hope that our feet and our legs are up to the task. And that El toro decides to have a quieter day. I’m not sure my 51 year old legs can keep going so fast for another long day.

Buen Camino Nathalie, Xavier, Siobhan and Alice!

The Windy Day – 8 April 2022

It was not windy in Estella. It was not windy in Irache at the Fuente del Vino. But shortly thereafter, the wind started blowing in our face and it didn’t let up all day. Uncle Pete would call this, The Windy Day. He would say, “remember the windy day?” And we would nod in reverence to that windiest of days thus far on the Camino. I miss uncle Pete and his wife Karen.

But enough reflection on my friends back in Australia, it’s time to drink wine from a well not long after the sun has risen. Welcome to the Fuente del Vino, the well of wine.

In that innocent looking Evian bottle is pure Navarra gold, vino tinto from the Bodegas Irache, free for the willing peregrino just after sunrise

Despite a warmer start, 10 degrees in Estella, there was a chill in the air. We made our way 2 hours down the path to the village of Azqueta for a cafe con leche, some fruit and snacks. The cafe was busy with cold pilgrims. We saw many of our good friends from all around the world. From Azqueta, it was a cold slog into a constant headwind. As our friends from São Paulo noted, it makes the way twice as long today. They were right. On paper this was an easy stage, just shy of 22km and after the early morning climbs, so much easier after a little vino Tinto, it was pretty flat.

But that’s the thing about the Camino, what looks easy is hard. James and I even contemplated going on to Torres del Rio, another 8km, but we were blown apart by the time we got to Los Arcos.

The Spanish Blue Mountains in the background

So green, who knows what adventures you will have once you step out the front door, grab a walking pole and pack and take that first step

The final kilometres into Los Arcos were a slog. We were glad of the gradual descent into this small village. We checked into the Albergue Casa Abueia. In our room are Joe from South Korea and David from Ohio.

Our good friends Karin (okay, it only took 6 days to get the spelling correct), Nathalie and Xavier. We also saw Siobhan and Alice, again, at the local bar.

Over a beer, Xavier told me about their son. They adopted him from Thailand nearly 13 years ago. They showed me a picture and he looked very happy. Xavier said he was good academically and at sport, but in the last few years had lost his way a little. Xavier told me that he had no faith. He spoke proudly of their son and how he has great empathy. I pointed to his heart and told him that here is where his faith lies. He has a great heart. And so does Nathalie. What a gift for James and I to meet these people on the way.

Back in the Albergue, I check the footy score – Cats 80 Lions 70. Yeah baby! Go the Catters!

Also check our washing, still a little damp and then attend to the blisters that I have on the 2nd toes of both my feet. With a combination of compeed, cotton threaded through and ibuprofen, they should improve. Apart from sore muscles and joints, they are our only injuries thus far. Touch wood!

Also saw our first pilgrim with a dog today. It was a collie cross wolf by my reckoning and full of energy even after 20 + kilometres. Spanish dogs make us laugh, so many are scruffy little terriers or tall terriers, very familiar to us. As we pass, James always says, “scruffy dog.”

Outside I can hear the local kids playing. The busyness of their language, the ups and downs in volume and excitement. I wonder what they are saying to each other. “Hey, should we go and annoy tired and stinky pilgrims?”

Before dinner, Joe, James and I head to the local bar. As we are enjoying a drink with Peter from Seattle and Bill, we hear that the cathedral is open. We enter as Ave Maria is being played on the organ. The cathedral is breathtaking.

Readying for Easter, here is a glass casket with a manikin of Jesus

For such a small town with a declining population, they sure have a lovely church.

Dinner is at restaurant Mavi with Siobhan, Alice, Peter and Joe. The meal is fine, supplemented by a reserve Rioja that Joe and Peter buy for the table. As we leave, it is raining. Tomorrow we have a big day, nearly 30km. The last thing we want is rain. We can only hope it passes overnight. We have an early start, 6:00am.