It’s funny how we never really delve deeply into a guidebook until we actually need to read it. For all intents and purposes today looked like a relatively easy one, about 10km downhill, a brief climb, then more downhill into Olveiroa. There we would have a nice lunch, a rest and then press on in the early afternoon. The best laid plans.
But I digress. After threats of a 5:30 or 5:45am start, I woke at about 6:50 with no alarm. The lads in the albergue room had either muted their alarms or turned them off. The bed was comfortable and I’d had around 9 or so hours sleep. Should I just stay in bed a little longer?
What got me going was the thought of a potentially long day in the sun. Early mornings are characterised by low cloud and cool conditions, perfect for walking. By around 11:00am, the clouds burn away and you are left to walk in stifling sun, hoping for the breeze from the Atlantic to cool you at some point.
After a quick cafe con leche at the albergue, Daniel the Swede and I set off. The Way was beautiful this morning. There were a handful of pilgrims, even some walking back to Santiago. I called home and spoke to my sister and my dad. It was nice to hear their voices.
After about an hour or so, we walked into Vilaserio where the local bar made great coffee, fresh orange juice and toast with jam and butter. It was a perfect breakfast. The Way then followed a road for several kilometres. We passed a few dairy sheds that convey Eau de Galicia, a heady mix of shit, piss and heaven knows what else. Some days it takes your breathe away and today was one of those days. Through the next village, we left the bitumen and walked on some narrow gravel roads through gorgeous countryside. The climbs were small and relatively easy lulling us into a false sense of security.
Through the village of Maronas, a dog happily walked with some pilgrims for mile after mile. The Way turned from the road and onto a very steep gravel track. We did a double take at the way marker. “You’re kidding me man, I’m getting a taxi,” Dan said.
We slowly made our way up to a viewing platform with expansive views over the dam – Embalse da Fervenza. It would be noice to think this was a small bay from their Atlantic, but we still have a long way to go to put our tired pilgrim feet into that ocean.
At the viewing platform we met Katja from Frankfurt. She has started her Camino in Porto, made her way to Santiago and decided to keep walking. The three of us hot it off pretty quickly, chatting and laughing as we made our way down to Abeleiroas. There we stopped for a cool drink and bite to eat. Suddenly it seemed like there were more pilgrims around, though it can be deceptive as bars in little villages attract them like moths to a flame.
Leaving Abeleiroas we were back onto the bitumen and would barely leave it for the rest of the day. There was little shade, no breeze and the sun beat down.
It was a great opportunity to chat though as you didn’t need to see where to place your feet, just one step after another along the hot black top. Katja had found that the first part of her Camino was about finding herself again. She worked for herself in the tech world and was often hired as a team coach in large companies. Was this what she wanted to contribute to herself and the world? Walking had opened up an opportunity, to join with some others and start a new company. What an exciting prospect. She had arranged a meeting once she returned to Frankfurt.
For Katja the Camino had offered her a wonderful gift and she was very happy to take it. The Camino provides.
As we trudged in the heat to Olveiroa, Dan slowly dropped further behind. Today was kicking our arses. When we finally arrived, we headed straight for the shade at a bar and ordered cold drinks. We took our shoes off to rest our hot and tired feet, then opened the guidebook to contemplate where to fort from here. There were two options, Hospital which was another 5 or so kilometres or Dumbria, 6 kilometres further on from Hospital. Dan had earlier decided Hospital was it for him. Tomorrow after we pass The Great Divide, he will head to Fisterra. I’d always decided to go to Muxia first, mainly based on James Sage’s suggestion that transport from Fisterra is much easier.
As we slogged up the hill toward Hospital, I decided that my feet could go no further. The guidebook had explained that there was a relatively new albergue here. As we walked into the village, it felt like a ghost town. There were derelict buildings and no signs for an albergue. We all looked at each other and shrugged. Do we keep walking?
Eventually a local walked by and we asked her where the albergue was located. She pointed around the corner and from what we could tell, it had something to do with a bar. I checked the app and called the number. A friendly lady answered. “Hola, tres peregrino for albergue por favour.” I had no idea what she said, but it sound like 5 minutes. I thanked her and hung up. A few minutes later a lady with a huge smile drove around the corner and greeted us near the door. Welcome to Alberue O Castelino.
The albergue is new and clean and has a friendly vibe about it. Though its hard to find, I would recommend it as a place to stay.
The lady showed us around and then told us that she would pick us up and drive us to the bar for dinner at 7:00pm. The three of us could not be happier.
Dinner was at the local bar run by the same family. We were joined by Etienne who stepped out of front door in France 11 weeks ago and an Italian family walking from Santiago to Fisterra. The food was lovely, soup for entree, beef and salad for main and crème brulee for dessert. Everyone is tired and a little sunburnt after a big day under the sun.
The Long Camino 