The long line of pilgrims makes its way through the verdant fields and forests of Galicia. As we pass a field, we note how handsome and come hither the cattle are. For once they are not covered with crap. They are various shades of tan and light brown. Some lull happily on their sides. Even the bulls look overly happy, like they know something you don’t. Then we see that there is a really stylish cafe amongst an assortment of farm buildings. As we approach, there is a menu board next to the trail. It proudly advertises a range of hamburgers (hamburguesas in Spanish). And next to the menu is a photo of one of the light brown cows, it’s soft eyes and long lashes staring straight at you.
“Beer and a burger anyone?”
We said good morning to Simone and Anthony as they passed us in the stillness and sunshine of Portomarin. Anthony offered me coffee, but James saw a cafe open and I took a chance. The only other cafe had a line of about 30 pilgrims, so this looked like a better bet. Ha! Just like “Spanish time” – if it says it opens at 8:00, 8:45 will do – there is something we call “Spanish service”. It comes in a few different forms. Let’s take a dive.
Spanish Service 1 – you see a local order something, perhaps a cafe con leche. You see that it is strong, not milky, like too many cafe con leches. So, you order one. Instead of the nice, strong coffee, you get a cup that is largely milk with a splash of espresso.
Spanish Service 2 – read my Foncebadon blog and how it took 2 hours for 10 people on one table to order.
Spanish Service 3 – this morning the cafe is pumping. As I mentioned in yesterday’s blog, there are a lot more pilgrims now. The reason is that many join at Sarria as you can receive a Compostela for walking 100km. Anyway, there are so many more pilgrims. The cafe we go into has one lady taking orders, making the coffees, going into the kitchen to make toast, cutting oranges and feeding them into a tiny hand juicing machine, etc. she takes an order, turns her back and gets to work, as you would. Pilgrims weap as they wait for their morning coffees and pastries, doing a head count of everyone before them and calculating in their minds how long this may take.
But there is such a charm to the Spanish service as well. Some places are pumping and they take orders and get everything out so quickly with minimal fuss. Like where we had second breakfast at Gonzar. The fresh juice and coffee was amazing.
We caught up with Leo and James who did a 42km day yesterday to get from Triacastella to Portomarin. It was good to walk with our Australian mates.
Anyway, back to the hamburgers, they were amazing.
We caught up with the 3 April Crew for a beer and some more laughs. The afternoon was pretty uneventful as the way wound through a series of lush valleys, eucalyptus plantations, natural forests and farmland.
James and Leo made some friends.
We arrived in Palas del Reí as the church bells struck 4. We checked into the Zendoria Albergue, a very funky place a block or two off the Camino.
I shaved.
I guess today was pretty uneventful. We’ve been walking pretty much nonstop for over four weeks and we’re ready to sleep in and not spend a good deal of the day walking. As we run into pilgrims we’ve now known for weeks, there is only one question asked first – when are you getting to Santiago? For James and I, my guess is Friday, but who knows. It’s time to sit down with the maps and figure out the last 60 odd kilometres.
The Long Camino 