23km across Galicia and 99% was with the smell of cattle “waste”. They are healthy beasts, but if you could have my photos with smellovision, woof!
After a good night’s rest in Sarria, we had breakfast at the local bar. It was so busy with new pilgrims frantically getting their first stamps and throwing down coffees. James and I felt like we were sloths as we quietly sat enjoying a fresh orange juice, coffee and eggs.
It really felt like the first day of school camp. Everyone was excited. They had new gear. Our favourites were the hot pink joggers. And they were ready to begin their Camino.
After a steep descent and then a wander next to a train line and under a freeway, we entered the woods and our first ascent.
I saw a tree that reminded me of Siobhan and Alice, it seemed Irish and needed to be protected.
After the last few days of steep climbs and descents and more steep climbs and descents, my calves felt like bags of ball bearings tied at each end with wire. They flop around like a dead weight. And they hurt.
Much of the way meanders through a rural landscape that reminded us of England with its dry stone walls, oaks and green paddocks.
James struggled again as his on again off again stomach bug waxed and waned. After about 6 or so kilometres, we stopped for a rest and ran into Maria, Dazza, Olaf and Marios, the 3 April Crew. Marios had some medications to help James until we got to a pharmacy.
We then entered the world of the Shire and began looking for Hobbits. We didn’t find any but we did see a long line of pilgrims stretching out ahead and behind us.
Way markers must be super cheap to make and install in Galicia as they are everywhere. You can pass one on one side of a corner and then 15 metres on there will be another one, just in case you got lost somewhere in between. The other strange thing about these way markers is that they are to the nearest metre. Yes, metre. So as you traverse that hair raising 15 metres between way markers. You can also see your progress. In hindsight, perhaps it was 16 metres.
Today marked another major milestone on our Camino, we passed the 100km to Santiago de Compostela way marker. We’re not entirely convinced that this means we have 100km to go. Galicia must be driving Mads crazy.
A little further on we ran into the 3 April Crew again and had a beer and some lunch. It has taken over four weeks, but we had the best bocadillo on the whole Camino. The bread was crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. The filling was fresh tomato, cheese, grilled chicken and pesto. It was sooooo gooood. Yes, as I’ve said before, pilgrims walk on their stomachs.
The afternoon was champagne walking. There are so many more bars and little places to stop on this part of the Camino. Someone also noted that the quality of the food had improved dramatically on this part as well.
Then Portomarin came into view.
James and I walked with Marios and Dazza, chatting about our adventures over the last month. It was great to see these guys again.
We checked into our albergue, had a shower and a rest.
For dinner we enjoy a great pizza in an Italian run restaurant. After dinner we catch up with Simone and Anthony, Regina and Paul for a glass of wine. We are all feeling a little strange about the fact that our pilgrim days will end this Friday. But we are also excited about finishing our Camino and moving on with the next adventure, our lives back home.
The Long Camino 