“Is this the last climb on the Camino?” James asks. “I’m pretty sure this is it in terms of big climbs.” I reply. “Hell yeah,” he says, “hell yeah.”
On paper it seems daunting. We climb over 1,100 metres and descend 370 metres over close to 30km. The start of the day is easy. We meander around next to a B or maybe C road for about 15km, passing through numerous well stocked villages.
It was pretty easy walking, but we always had in mind what was up ahead, just past Las Herrerías.
On the way we passed many familiar faces including Jen and Mark from the Central Coast in New South Wales. They always have smiles on their faces and it’s always great to see them. We also passed Glenn from the USA. He’s struggling with a bad ankle and has decided not to go the whole way to O’Cebreiro today.
After several hours next to a road, we turn a corner and are met with an enormous service centre. It is packed with people ordering fast food and drinks. It’s a little surreal after the peace and quiet of the small villages.
After several more kilometres on the road, we drop down into Las Herrerías. We enjoy a beer and a lunch with James and Leo at a great little local bar.
From there, it is but a few hundred metres before we start climbing steeply. Initially we are on a small road with very little shade. It is very hot as there is little to no breeze. As we turn a corner, the local horse taxi passes us by. It is 40€ to ride a horse to the summit. We all pass.
The trail then splits from the road and after a few hundred metres, the gradient increases dramatically. We all sweat as we make our way up the valley. The river that was so wide and full of water just a kilometre or so back is now a stream no more than a metre or two wide. After 15 or so minutes, we turn a corner into La Faba. We fill our water bottles and rest in the shade, safe in the knowledge that the steepest part of the climb is over.
We pass through the village of La Laguna and then we are on the final kilometre into O’Cebeiro. The views back over the valleys are amazing. We have walked the view once more.
And we leave Castilla Y León and pass into Galicia.
O’Cebreiro is a tiny old Gaelic village that dates back some time. The little church is famous for several reasons that you can read about on wikipedia. We’re hot, tired, sore and thirsty. And we need to check into our room and have a shower.
We catch up with Manny and Julian (Canadian) who we met in Hospital de Orbiga where he started his Camino, for a drink. James and I try a local specialty, a hamburger that is encased in dough. I like it. James is not so sure.
From here we have 2 more days before we hit Sarria. This is an important town as many pilgrims start here as it is just over 100km from Santiago. If they walk 100km, they can get a Compostela in Santiago. We are expecting a lot more pilgrims to be on the trail from there.
Some pilgrims who have walked from St Jean Pied de Port get a little angry with these 100km pilgrims. For me, they have all the same right as I do to be out here. I’m a little excited to walk amongst a much bigger throng. The only possible downside is accomodation.
Within the week we will arrive in Santiago. As I talk to pilgrims I have now known for some time, the talk invariably turns to the impending end. What next? Will you walk again? Are you excited about the end or do you want it to go on?
James and I talk about the very same things. We both love being here, but we have so much to live for back at home that we are also excited about getting this done and getting back to Australia.
Our perspective is very different from many other pilgrims we have met. They are at a crossroads in their life and are using the Camino to figure out where to from here. They may have quit a job or retired or been laid off. They may be recently divorced or contemplating separation. They may be recovering from a serious illness and need direction. Or lost a child. We see their struggle as the burden they often carry is much greater than the weight of their packs.
We all walk for different reasons. For now, our bodies are tired and sore after a big day on the Camino. We have less than a week of walking to go. While my mind may be very happy to return home, my body has really grown into the idea of walking 20 or 25 or 30 kilometres every day. Returning to working life, where too many hours are spent at a desk, will be hard to deal with. But that’s in the future. That will look after itself in good time. Buen Camino. Hell yeah!
The Long Camino 