The forecast is for a maximum of 25 degrees, weather we have yet to experience on the Camino. It’s going to be a shorts day.
Last night James and I shared a room at Albergue Guiana with Leo and James. The albergue was either new or had been renovated during lockdown. It was most pleasant.
We breakfasted at a new cafe opposite the Templar Castle, the best cafe we have found along the whole Camino. James enjoyed fresh fruits, muesli and yoghurt. I had an English breakfast of eggs, bacon and tiny little sausages. Very yummy.
We got to see another part of Ponferrada as we were leaving.
The way follows parkland along the rio Sil, it was very pretty on this morning.
At the end of the path was a short, steep climb to give us views of the city.
From there the path passes what James and I had christened as Ponferrada Heights West, a very affluent suburb of grand houses on large, manicured blocks.
Then we passed into some farmland and under the NVI road before a long walk through strange outer suburb/hobby farms. There was very nice little paddock of wheat on not much more than a standard house block that stuck out as we passed.
We enjoy a coffee before entering a stretch of the way on a main road. This goes and and on and on. Sorry James, did you call this section “nasty”? We distract ourselves by looking at cars, rating cars, talking about dream cars, trash cars, first cars, worse cars, current cars. Cars. More cars. Yep, this section was nasty. And boring.
After what seemed an interminable walk, we cross the road and walk into a small forest. A few hundred metres later we’re crossing a freeway on a bridge and thence into the peace of vineyards.
As we descend to a small creek, we notice a guy sitting next to the way. He’s a German born Spaniard called José. He’s carving the most beautiful scallop shells from different woods. I buy James a walnut shell to give him strength on this day that he’s still feeling unwell.
We walk through more vines as the temperature continues to climb.
We stop in Cacabelos for lunch at the English run bar and albergue. The four of us share stories and laughs, it is a lovely experience to share time with James and Leo.
As we’re leaving the village, we cross a bridge. As a fisherman, I’m always keen to check the state of the waters. They are running gin clear and strong. Then I notice a movement, then a shape. Then something rises. Are those trout?
Yes they are. Though it’s hard to tell from the photo, my guess would be at least two pound, maybe three. Later that day I notice someone heading over the bridge in Villafranca. They look at the water intently as they pass.
From Cacabelos, it is a tough, hot slog next to the road for a few kilometres. The gravel is white and reflecting the heat straight into our faces. Finally the way veers away from the road into more vines.
As we slowly climb, the views over the valley get better and better.
After a very long hot day, we finally get into Villafranca at around 3:30. We thought about a cold drink in the square, but James and I just want a cool shower. Our room is across the river, some 900m across the river, so venturing back into town is off the table, especially as the Camino is right at our door.
Our room is on the 3rd floor. Do they know we have to climb to O’Cebreiro tomorrow? The climb up the stairs with my pack is insane.
James and I have a booking for tomorrow night, so we are contemplating sending our big packs forward at a cost of 10€ (worth every cent) and carrying a small daypack. We will shower, wash dirty clothes and dirty socks, have an afternoon rest, eat dinner and then decide. I think trout is on the menu tonight.
Okay, so trout was on the menu and it was delicious and I believe it was caught in the stream next to our Hostal.
Now for sleep. Our bodies are starting to feel the pain of walking almost nonstop for 4 weeks. Muscles are sore and tight. I can only imagine how we’ll feel this time tomorrow. We have close to 30km to walk with a viscous climb at the end. But that is tomorrow. Now we sleep and dream.
The Long Camino 