We run into Karin as we leave the albergue. It’s great to see her after a few weeks. She was unwell yesterday but is otherwise doing well.
After the rain yesterday evening, it was nice to wake to clear skies over the valley. It was very cold, about 1 or 2 degrees, but we pilgrims were happy to walk into the sunshine as the morning came to life.
After a cafe con leche, we descend gently from Astorga. It would be our last descent for the day for today we climb into the mountains.
A slow, long ascent leads us through a couple of villages. Dogs stretch in the morning sun. Heather is flowering.
We catch up with Canadian friends, Rita and Chad, and walk and talk for a few kilometres. We chat to Americans. It seems a lot of pilgrims have joined at León and Astorga. The way seems busier. Karin tells us that a day or so ago 400 pilgrims arrived at Roncesvalles. It only has 300 beds. Estimates put this years pilgrim total at over 500,000. Given how many places we have visited have struggled with our small number, I can’t imagine what the Camino will be like in another month or two. We have been very lucky to experience it as we have, relatively quiet.
As the day progresses, the clouds begin to gather and the wind drops. We get hot in our gear and walk in shirts to Rabanal, about 20km from Astorga. James and I had chatted and decided that if it was raining at Rabanal, we would stay there. Instead, it is sunny and warm and we enjoy a bacon and egg sandwich at a bar. It is delicious and will power us the next 5km uphill to Foncebadon.
As we leave Rabanal it starts to rain. Just the odd drop. We look to the skies. “Not much in it,” we declare and walk on. Clouds close in, the wind picks up and the temperature drops. Was it a good idea to climb higher into the mountains today?
Then the clouds part and we walk once more in the heat of the sun. Whilst steep, it is a beautiful walk through flowering heath. And the views back over the valley are sensational.
After a shower, I head to the bar for a beer and to write this blog. As I look outside, it starts to pour rain. I feel for the pilgrims still on the trail.
As I sit in the bar, who should walk in but Evalina. We have not seen her since the day 3 walk into Pamplona. It’s always lovely to see people you lost touch with earlier in the Camino.
Dinner is in the bar downstairs. The waiter, who also seems to be the cook, takes only 2 or 3 orders at a time. James, Grant (USA) and I order. Then the waiter runs away. Some time later he returns with our dinners. Only after we are nearly finished does he take any orders from anyone else at our table, and then only from James and Leo.
Thankfully the food that the waiter cooks is quite good. James enjoys a particularly good cut of meat.
Tomorrow morning we walk to the Cruz de Ferró. Today has been a big day but the pay off is that the 5km slog we did this afternoon is done and we don’t face it first thing in the morning.
As I look out the window, the sun is gently caressing the valleys to the northwest. The sky is clear and the world is quiet and at peace.
The Long Camino 