It turns out that Grant has caught a cold from somewhere. Albergue are full of coughing and sneezing peregrinó. After a terrible night, he decides to ship his pack to Fromista and carry a day pack. It turns out to be a wise move. After a light breakfast, the trail descends gently from Castrojeriz before hitting a brutal little climb known as the mule killer.
But given this is our 15th day of walking since leaving St Jean, we don’t even pause for a rest and make the brutal climb in one push.
After half a kilometre or so of flat walking, we’re making an even steeper descent down the other side. The views are spectacular and we all agree it is so vast it is difficult to portray in photos.
The boys kept a quick pace across the plain. After another 5-6km we crossed a bridge and into the Provence of Palencia.
Around many areas on the Meseta revegetation is occurring. This provides shady respite from the heat of the sun out here.
We stop in Itero de La Vega with a host of other pilgrims for a cafe con leche and some sustenance beyond white bread, butter and jam. The fresh eggs and ham are tasty.
From there, we enter a treeless expanse for the next 8 or so kilometres. We all dream of our favourite meals from home as we settle into the meditation of the Meseta.
We stop at Boadilla del Camino for a cold drink. The day is warming and it is hot on the white paths. From Boadilla del Camino to Fromista, we walk almost entirely next to the Canal de Castilla. We see one boat.
The Camino passes over the lock to enter into the village of Fromista. It is after 1:00 and we are hot and hungry.
We make our way through the village, partying again on this Easter Sunday, to the municipal Albergue. Grant’s pack is there waiting.
Instead of a shower, we head out for some lunch. A local directs us to a bar. I suspect he either gets a commission or he owns the place. Last night’s pizza bar is 5 star compared to this place. The service is woeful. When we ask for something from the menu we’re told they don’t have it. Then the waiter runs away and returns some minutes later to say they do. I guess they just had to check the freezer. The salad was just passable, the eggs and meat less so. The calamari was edible, but only to a starving pilgrim. Mikael looked at me and said, “that is the worst meal of my life.” We all nod in agreement.
After 2 weeks we are all tired of the white bread diet that is offered in the villages – white toast for breakfast and the bocadillos with various fillings for lunch. I’d kill for one of mum’s roast dinners or one of Claire’s delicious home cooked meals. At some point I need to find a good supermarket and buy some supplies to make a home cooked meal. But given it’s Easter, many places are closed and so we have to roll the dice at local bars.
We did pass what looked to be an expensive restaurant though and I’m at the point where I’m ready to splash some cash for some good food. Just think, almost 2 weeks ago we were in Pamplona living it up on the most delicious foods.
The crowning glory of Fromista is the 11th century Iglesia de San Martin, which is one of the finest examples of the Romanesque style in Spain. It sits proudly in the square close to our albergue like a museum piece.
We have dinner at a restaurant next to the albergue. Thankfully the food is lovely, as is the beer.
We’re all becoming more hobbit like, enjoying our beer and craving a good meal.
Fun facts, the Danish like marshmallow balls coated in chocolate that they used to call . . . well, we need not recall that dark time in Danish culinary history.
For James and I, we’re missing Vegemite.
We’re all missing brown bread, muesli and good yoghurt for breakfast. Someone once called the pilgrim diet the “beige” diet. Let’s hope that tomorrow we add to our colour palette.
The Meseta is playing its tricks on our minds. Our walking becomes automatic, leaving idle hours for our minds to wander. Tomorrow we walk 20km, nearly all next to a road. The mental journey that is Part 2 of the Camino continues.
The Long Camino 