An alarm keeps going off in our room, but each time it is snoozed and so we doze off for another 10 or so minutes. As I begin to wake, I can hear pilgrims readying for the day. Then I doze again. At some point I check my phone, 7:40!
Collectively we rise and start the day. We know that the local bar is not serving breakfast. We have also heard that the day starts with a rocky climb. All with no cafe con leche. We’re the last to leave the albergue.
As we reach the summit, the bush thins and we’re greeted by a cross. Amongst other things, a pair of Adidas joggers hang from the crossbar and someone has left a double plugger (thong, flip flop) amongst the rocks.
As we descend out of the fog I talk to Peter from Seattle. It’s good to hear other perspectives on the world. He has led an interesting life and has some good Seattle stories. In the distance we get glimpses of Burgos through the fog.
At the village of Cardenuela Riopico, we join the queue at a small cafe. James and I have fresh Orange juice, cafe con leche and a bacon and egg roll. I see a lady cutting into something I’ve never seen before in my life, a croissant totally covered in chocolate. Mind blown!
We have a flat walk along a road before we hit the first sign of a big city, the freeway.
Whilst the signs point for us to go straight ahead, continuing on the road, my guidebook has another route. It means we walk on a gravel track around the edge of the Burgos airport. For the hour or so we walk the perimeter, we see one small plane land. We’re a little surprised that the airport isn’t much busier. We’re glad that we took this route and not the busy road.
The guidebook also has another ace up it’s sleeve when we hit the main road, ignore the signs once more and follow the Rio Arlanzon (river) into the city. The path is initially a slim dirt track through scrub. The closer we get to the city, the better the path gets and the busier. The fog has been burnt off and we walk in beautiful sunshine.
We pass signs that tell of the fauna that live in the reserve next to the river including a colourful lizard, bird species and a viper. There are cyclists, runners and walkers all enjoying the day.
With tired feet, we make it into the city and our accommodation at the Hostel Catedral Burgos. As we walk into the front door, there is a queue of people checking in. It takes us about 45 minutes to get checked in. Mads and Mikael make the most of the time by calling their brother Morton for his 20th birthday. He’s had a big night and has to put on the boots for another one in four hours. Happy Birthday Morton! (I hope the spelling is correct).
By now we are starving. James, Mads, Mikael and I walk the city looking for somewhere to eat when Mikael suggests we eat burgers in Burgos. We find Hammmbur and order big as it’s now 3:30 in the afternoon.
We inhale chips with various condiments, mustard, ketchup, salsa and mayonnaise. the burgers are juicy and delicious.
After showers, washing clothes and a rest, we enter the streets of Burgos. It is Semana Santa, Holy Week, across Spain and the locals are partying hard. Buckets of beer on ice flow from the bars to happy young locals. They sing and laugh in the warm sunshine.
James and I wanted to visit the cathedral, but as we turn a corner, we realise this will be impossible.
A large parade is making its way to the cathedral. Music plays, wild trumpet music that reminds me of the New Orleans style. There are drums and strange little instruments that are wielded by people in masks. Television cameras televise the event. And then, it is gone and the city returns to feasting and drinking as if nothing ever happened.
All I can do is get a few shots of the rear of the cathedral. It is magnificent, made of limestone that always reflects light beautifully.
As I lie in bed, I can hear so many people outside still enjoying the night. It could be a long one. I hope we get some sleep tonight as tomorrow we are in the wild, treeless land of the Meseta. The next stage of our Camino begins.
The Long Camino 