Each day is a gift and today it is another gift to spend time with Mads and Mikael. I drop back and I listen as James asks them questions and they chat and laugh. They are patient and open. Their friendship on this journey is such a wonderful thing.
Straight out of the gate we start climbing up into a new landscape of dark woods, clear skies and fog. It rained again last night, though once more providence smiles upon us and we walked on a beautiful morning.
As we climb, the oaks are still to drop all of their leaves. Frost is on the ground in areas. Before long we approach a memorial to 300 Spanish shot in this area during the civil war – 1936 to 1939. The memorial is topped by doves of peace. We are reminded of the pain that this land has suffered when a country kills its own for a belief.
This afternoon I listen to some music, all chosen randomly. A song starts playing from The wonderful album by K.D Lang, Neko Case and Sarah Veirs. The lyrics are – the hungry fools who rule the world can’t catch us, surely they can’t ruin everything, I just want, want to be here with you, not bracing for what comes next.
After a steep descent, we climb to the Alto de Pedraja at 1,120m. We walk through ancient forests and newly planted pine forests. Amongst the dead leaves from last summer, little flowers bloom, reminders that life goes on and will always find a way. We pilgrims can pass for a hundred years and it is but an instant in the life of this landscape.
We descend into the pretty little village of San Juan. We pass from forest into pastures. Mads and James drop back and Mikael and I talk. We both appreciate how special it is to be out here with family.
Mads was born with extremely poor eyesight. This wasn’t picked up until he was around 6 years old. Mads is such a gentle soul. It is special to see how they relate as brothers, so kind with each other.
After a cafe con leche, we continue on for the last 6km. I call home to Claire and then Mum and Dad. It’s lovely to be able to see our loved ones on the other side of the world.
We stop in Atapuerca at the Albergue de Peregrinos. We’re the first to arrive and get a great little room for the 4 of us.
Atapuerca is famous as it is the place where the oldest human remains have been found in Europe, 1.5 million years.
We have lunch at the local bar, bocadillos with jamón and omelette, lovely.
After lunch we return to the Albergue as more pilgrims come in. We see Darren, Jasmine, Maria, Olaf and others from around the world.
For us, it is like a rest day.
For dinner we walk in the evening sun to the bar. We catch up with Peter from Seattle and share a beer. Then we enjoy calamari, ensalada and a vino tinto.
As we return to the Albergue the sky turns on a light show for us. We are readying ourselves for the city of Burgos tomorrow. Easter is but hours away. Who knows what that might bring.
The Long Camino 