It was not windy in Estella. It was not windy in Irache at the Fuente del Vino. But shortly thereafter, the wind started blowing in our face and it didn’t let up all day. Uncle Pete would call this, The Windy Day. He would say, “remember the windy day?” And we would nod in reverence to that windiest of days thus far on the Camino. I miss uncle Pete and his wife Karen.
But enough reflection on my friends back in Australia, it’s time to drink wine from a well not long after the sun has risen. Welcome to the Fuente del Vino, the well of wine.
Despite a warmer start, 10 degrees in Estella, there was a chill in the air. We made our way 2 hours down the path to the village of Azqueta for a cafe con leche, some fruit and snacks. The cafe was busy with cold pilgrims. We saw many of our good friends from all around the world. From Azqueta, it was a cold slog into a constant headwind. As our friends from São Paulo noted, it makes the way twice as long today. They were right. On paper this was an easy stage, just shy of 22km and after the early morning climbs, so much easier after a little vino Tinto, it was pretty flat.
But that’s the thing about the Camino, what looks easy is hard. James and I even contemplated going on to Torres del Rio, another 8km, but we were blown apart by the time we got to Los Arcos.
The final kilometres into Los Arcos were a slog. We were glad of the gradual descent into this small village. We checked into the Albergue Casa Abueia. In our room are Joe from South Korea and David from Ohio.
Our good friends Karin (okay, it only took 6 days to get the spelling correct), Nathalie and Xavier. We also saw Siobhan and Alice, again, at the local bar.
Over a beer, Xavier told me about their son. They adopted him from Thailand nearly 13 years ago. They showed me a picture and he looked very happy. Xavier said he was good academically and at sport, but in the last few years had lost his way a little. Xavier told me that he had no faith. He spoke proudly of their son and how he has great empathy. I pointed to his heart and told him that here is where his faith lies. He has a great heart. And so does Nathalie. What a gift for James and I to meet these people on the way.
Back in the Albergue, I check the footy score – Cats 80 Lions 70. Yeah baby! Go the Catters!
Also check our washing, still a little damp and then attend to the blisters that I have on the 2nd toes of both my feet. With a combination of compeed, cotton threaded through and ibuprofen, they should improve. Apart from sore muscles and joints, they are our only injuries thus far. Touch wood!
Also saw our first pilgrim with a dog today. It was a collie cross wolf by my reckoning and full of energy even after 20 + kilometres. Spanish dogs make us laugh, so many are scruffy little terriers or tall terriers, very familiar to us. As we pass, James always says, “scruffy dog.”
Outside I can hear the local kids playing. The busyness of their language, the ups and downs in volume and excitement. I wonder what they are saying to each other. “Hey, should we go and annoy tired and stinky pilgrims?”
Before dinner, Joe, James and I head to the local bar. As we are enjoying a drink with Peter from Seattle and Bill, we hear that the cathedral is open. We enter as Ave Maria is being played on the organ. The cathedral is breathtaking.
For such a small town with a declining population, they sure have a lovely church.
Dinner is at restaurant Mavi with Siobhan, Alice, Peter and Joe. The meal is fine, supplemented by a reserve Rioja that Joe and Peter buy for the table. As we leave, it is raining. Tomorrow we have a big day, nearly 30km. The last thing we want is rain. We can only hope it passes overnight. We have an early start, 6:00am.
The Long Camino 