Deep blue sky over Puenta La Reina crisscrossed by jet trails. I had to play Jet Trails in the Sky by David Grissom. It immediately bought smiles to our faces as we danced down the track to rejoin the Camino.
It was cold and we pilgrims were well rugged up to keep out the chill. It was a stunning morning and so I will let some pictures tell our story.
We’re both sore, tired and getting hot and so decide to stay at the municipal Albergue in Estella. For 8€ it is new and clean and has a lovely warm shower for us.
Across the road is a small bar. As I look out the window after my shower, I see Nathalie and Xavier. They too decide to stay here and we meet for a beer and some pinchos in the bar. As I’m looking out the door, Karin walks by, so I call to her and she joins us for a beer before booking into the Albergue.
After our snack, James heads back to our bunk for a rest and to charge devices. The other pilgrims go to shower. I decide to go for a walk into the village. Not far along the street is the 16th century building that is now the Museo del Carlismo, museum of Carlism. From what I can tell, Carlism was a traditional, anti-liberal movement for about 140 years from the 1830’s. It included many pretenders to the throne and resulted, judging by the art, in many battles across Spain. As I said to the lady that worked there, the museum is beautiful but also very sad. She agreed.
There was also an exhibit about medicine in war. I was pleasantly surprised to see a number of Goya pieces. I was turned onto Goya by the great Australian art critic, Robert Hughes. He wrote a book about him that I still cherish now. The last time I had seen Goya work was at a gallery in the Balboa Park in San Diego USA when Claire and I were there. His work is so moving. As the narrative said – Goya made 83 plates of the Napoleónico invasion, all with scathing titles.
‘Bury them and keep quiet, how is it even possible to mourn,’ he said of those who fell pointlessly in war. Apt words even today.
We pilgrims say that world leaders should be forced to travel for 36 hours with their enemies, arrange transport, and then walk the Camino together. At the end they would no longer be enemies, but family.
When I come back to the Albergue to rest, James and the others decide to visit the museum. I also see Mads and Mikael, very sunburnt after today and needing some sunscreen for the days ahead.
After an afternoon rest, we walk to the Church of San Miguel. Evening mass is being held and there are a few dozen people in attendance.
After a beer we return to our local bar, Casa Carmen for a lovely meal of salad, chorizo in cider, calamari and potatoes done local style, dressed in a blue cheese like sauce. James loved it all and then finished with chocolate cake. I had my all time favourite, Basque cheesecake which Carmen decided to feed me.
It was divine! Now we are once again ready for ibuprofen and bed. What a great day on the Camino. The richness that is offered to us each day is hard to take in by our minds that are used to such simple days back at school and work. Even a 1,000 year old church is mind blowing, but also such an everyday thing at the same time. Reminders that the world is an amazing place, including the land we hail from with 60,000 years of rich culture.
And now we sleep.
The Long Camino 